TANG DYNASTY
Tang Dynasty (AD 618 – 907) was a period of unity and prosperity when the policy and economy were highly developed while the culture and art were thriving. This dynasty established a unified and prosperous China.
The clothing materials in Tang were exquisite and the dresses of the upper class were mainly made of silk and famous for their softness and lightness. The structure was natural, graceful and elegant, and adornments were splendid.
In general, Tang women’s dresses can be classified into three categories which are Hufu, traditional ruqun, and the full set of the male garments that broke the tradition of the Confucian formalities.
The clothing materials in Tang were exquisite and the dresses of the upper class were mainly made of silk and famous for their softness and lightness. The structure was natural, graceful and elegant, and adornments were splendid.
In general, Tang women’s dresses can be classified into three categories which are Hufu, traditional ruqun, and the full set of the male garments that broke the tradition of the Confucian formalities.
Traditional ruqun
The traditional ruqun is also known as double layered or padded short jacket that was typical of central China. Ruqun is made up of the top jacket and long gown and skirt on the bottom. This traditional style was inherited by Tang women and is developed further; the collar is opened up as far as exposing the cleavage between the breasts. This was unheard of and unimaginable in the previous dynasties, in which women had to cover their entire body according to the Confucian classics. But the new style was soon embraced by the open-minded aristocratic women of the Tang Dynasty. In the Tang dynasty, the skirt of ruqun was tied higher up
below the bustline instead of at the waist.
The dress had many matching accessories including a short sleeve shirt called banbi or half-arm. Banbi is worn outside of the long sleeve jacket, and it is named half-arm because the length of the sleeve was somewhere between the vest and the long sleeve. It functions just like a vest.
The Tang women favoured the pizi or cape, or as an alternative, a large piece of silk draped over the arms. The difference is that the cape was wide and short draped over one shoulder of the wearer. However the pibo, is much longer and narrower, draping over the shoulder from back to front; it is what is normally called the “ribbon”. When wearing the ruqun, the Tang women rarely wore hats. Sometimes they wore decorative flower crowns, but when out, they often covered their faces with a veil.
The Tang women favoured the pizi or cape, or as an alternative, a large piece of silk draped over the arms. The difference is that the cape was wide and short draped over one shoulder of the wearer. However the pibo, is much longer and narrower, draping over the shoulder from back to front; it is what is normally called the “ribbon”. When wearing the ruqun, the Tang women rarely wore hats. Sometimes they wore decorative flower crowns, but when out, they often covered their faces with a veil.
Hufu
Second classification of dress is the Hufu, garments of the Tartars or those who lived in the Western Regions, known as alien dress that came from the Silk Road. The costume was made up of a tight – fitting long robe buttoned up in front with an overturned collar, long trousers, a hat and high heels. As a result of foreign influence, the application of various motifs on the forehead became popular. Between the two eyebrows, often a flower –patterned ornament stuck there. The ornament was made of oil – tea camellia seeds or gold foil and many other materials.
During the latter half of the dynasty, Hufu become less popular as the big – sleeved style became the new favourite garment of the ruling class. As the commoners could not afford to buy as much cloth to make garments with very big sleeves, the distinction in dress between upper and lower classes widened.
Male garments
Last classification of dress is the full set of male garments. The garments in the Tang Dynasty greatly affected the garments of neighbouring countries. For instance, the Japanese kimono adopted the dresses of the elites of the Tang Dynasty in terms of colours, and the Hanbok, a traditional Korean clothing also adopted the beneficial traits of the dresses of the Tang Dynasty.
In Tang dynasty, women could wear male garments. This trend was partially due to the influence of the minority groups and horse – riding nomadic tribes in society. It was popular at the start of the dynasty and was commonly seen amongst the noblewomen who frequently played polo and went horse – riding with the men.
In Tang dynasty, women could wear male garments. This trend was partially due to the influence of the minority groups and horse – riding nomadic tribes in society. It was popular at the start of the dynasty and was commonly seen amongst the noblewomen who frequently played polo and went horse – riding with the men.
References:
1. Costume in the Tang Dynasty [Internet]. China: China Culture; 2003 [updated 2013 May 2; cited 2013 May 3]. Available from: http://www.chinaculture.org/gb/en_chinaway/2003-09/24/content_28399.htm.
2. Woman's Costume in the Tang Dynasty [Internet]. [updated 2009 August 12; cited 2013 May 3]. Available from: http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/ethnic/2009-08/12/content_8561947.htm.
3. Woman's Costume in the Tang Dynasty [Internet]. XCN Chinese; 2009-2010 [cited 2013 May 3]. Available from: http://www.xcn-chinese.com/app/showarticle.asp?id=978.
1. Costume in the Tang Dynasty [Internet]. China: China Culture; 2003 [updated 2013 May 2; cited 2013 May 3]. Available from: http://www.chinaculture.org/gb/en_chinaway/2003-09/24/content_28399.htm.
2. Woman's Costume in the Tang Dynasty [Internet]. [updated 2009 August 12; cited 2013 May 3]. Available from: http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/ethnic/2009-08/12/content_8561947.htm.
3. Woman's Costume in the Tang Dynasty [Internet]. XCN Chinese; 2009-2010 [cited 2013 May 3]. Available from: http://www.xcn-chinese.com/app/showarticle.asp?id=978.