QING DYNASTY
Qing dynasty began in 1644 until 1991 AD. Qing dynasty stands when Manchu, rider from the North East region conquered the Ming dynasty empire in 1644.
Robe is used by the emperor and it is believed to bring luck to the people. Black wool robe is used for high officer and yellow colour is used for the imperial family. The citizens are not allowed to use or even have this robe, although they are allowed to sell it. Who opposes this regulation will face heavy penalties, even subject to the death penalty.
Empire robe has horseshoe-shaped sleeves and has a heavy collar. Because the Manchu made a living by hunting in Northeast climates, they must protect themselves from the cold weather.
Manchu wear circular sleeves that can be placed on the hand, and a separate heavy collar that aims to protect the hunters from the cold weather in a long journey.
However, in the end the sleeve proved to be a hindrance in doing daily activities in the palace. The emperors often roll up their sleeves, and just lowered their sleeves if they want to greet a stranger. That initiates this habit, and eventually spread to all people. Thus, it becomes a habit of Chinese people to roll up their sleeves and only roll down their sleeves, when greeting strangers.
Robe is used by the emperor and it is believed to bring luck to the people. Black wool robe is used for high officer and yellow colour is used for the imperial family. The citizens are not allowed to use or even have this robe, although they are allowed to sell it. Who opposes this regulation will face heavy penalties, even subject to the death penalty.
Empire robe has horseshoe-shaped sleeves and has a heavy collar. Because the Manchu made a living by hunting in Northeast climates, they must protect themselves from the cold weather.
Manchu wear circular sleeves that can be placed on the hand, and a separate heavy collar that aims to protect the hunters from the cold weather in a long journey.
However, in the end the sleeve proved to be a hindrance in doing daily activities in the palace. The emperors often roll up their sleeves, and just lowered their sleeves if they want to greet a stranger. That initiates this habit, and eventually spread to all people. Thus, it becomes a habit of Chinese people to roll up their sleeves and only roll down their sleeves, when greeting strangers.
ROBE AND DRESS FOR SPECIFIC EVENT
There is a variety of robe and clothes for specific event. There are robe for celebrations, special robes for the ceremony, traveling clothes and clothes for bad weather, snow and rain, as well as clothing for everyday activities that are used in residential and private environment.
The colour chosen must fit with the emperor robe. Some of the colours used by the emperor are a bright yellow, red, blue and light blue. Yellow is used as the colour for the celebration. While the other three colours are used for ceremonies in the three main temples; the blue colour in the Temple of Heaven, red in the Temple of the Sun and light blue in the Temple of the Moon. With every robe, the emperor will also use a belt and hat with matching colours.
The colour chosen must fit with the emperor robe. Some of the colours used by the emperor are a bright yellow, red, blue and light blue. Yellow is used as the colour for the celebration. While the other three colours are used for ceremonies in the three main temples; the blue colour in the Temple of Heaven, red in the Temple of the Sun and light blue in the Temple of the Moon. With every robe, the emperor will also use a belt and hat with matching colours.
COURT ROBES
Jifu
A dragon motif together with a decorative representation of the Chinese conception of the cosmos is the decoration of formal (chaofu) and semi-formal (jifu) court robes. The dragon that symbolised the emperor, known as the Son of Heaven and permission to wear the robe was given by him. People that were granted the privilege of wearing court robes are the one who passed the civil service examinations and attained the status of a government official. Rank was further distinguished by a hierarchy of colour and decoration.
SURCOATS
Round dragon medallions are displayed in surcoats worn by the imperial family. Only certain individuals are granted the privilege of wearing these medallions by the emperor. In contrast, civil and military officials displayed square court insignia badges with the appropriate bird or animal identifying their rank. In Chinese cosmology a circle represents heaven and a square represents earth. The dragon symbolises the emperor, who was regarded as the Son of Heaven.
FORMAL COURT DRESS
At the most solemn state ceremonies such as accession to the throne, imperial weddings, birthdays, New Year, winter solstice and sacrifices to heaven and earth, the emperor and court officials wore formal dress (chaofu). It was generally worn with a ceremonial collar (piling). The style was appropriated from Ming court dress, with the addition of the distinctive Manchu horse-hoof cuffs, plain cloth insertions at the sleeves and the collar.
SUMMER AND WINTER ROBES
Manchu women winter coat
Court clothing was divided into summer and winter dress. Summer robes were made of gauze or lined with silk and winter robes were padded with silk, or trimmed or lined with fur. The emperor's formal winter court dress was further divided into two forms. One was worn from the beginning of the 11th lunar month until the 15th day of the first lunar month. The other was worn from the 15th or the 25th of the ninth lunar month until the first day of the 11th lunar month. The date of seasonal change of dress was decided by the Board of Rites and was issued as an imperial edict.
MANCHU'S WOMEN INFORMAL DRESS
Floral pattern robe
Manchu women's informal wear comprised two styles of long robe known as changyi and chenyi, worn with a long neck ribbon. The chenyi featured a round neck and a panel crossing from left to right, fastening at the side with five buttons and loops. It had a relatively straight body and full sleeves. The changyi differed in that it had splits up each side of the robe allowing facility of movement. The splits were often highlighted by decorative borders.
Reference:
1. Chinese dress in Qing dynasty [Internet]. [cited 2013 April 25]. Available from: http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/hsc/evrev/chinese_dress.htm.
2. Juexiao Zhang. Pakaian Tradisional China: Rahasia Jubah Naga [Internet]. Era Baru News: 2003-20011; 2012 July 22 [cited 2013 April 25]. Available from: http://erabaru.net/sejarah/56-sejarah/31114-pakaian-tradisional-china-rahasia-jubah-naga.
3. Yang Lu. Chinese Clothing-Five Thousand Years' History [Internet]. [cited 2013 April 25]. Available from: http://polaris.gseis.ucla.edu/yanglu/ECC_CULTURE_CLOTHING.HTM.
1. Chinese dress in Qing dynasty [Internet]. [cited 2013 April 25]. Available from: http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/hsc/evrev/chinese_dress.htm.
2. Juexiao Zhang. Pakaian Tradisional China: Rahasia Jubah Naga [Internet]. Era Baru News: 2003-20011; 2012 July 22 [cited 2013 April 25]. Available from: http://erabaru.net/sejarah/56-sejarah/31114-pakaian-tradisional-china-rahasia-jubah-naga.
3. Yang Lu. Chinese Clothing-Five Thousand Years' History [Internet]. [cited 2013 April 25]. Available from: http://polaris.gseis.ucla.edu/yanglu/ECC_CULTURE_CLOTHING.HTM.