Gwanmo (Official Hats)
Je-gwan (ritual cap)
Scholars and military officers of the Joseon Dynasty (1392 – 1910) wore Je-gwan for memorial services at the royal ancestral shrine. The number of strings that connected the front and the back of Je-gwan denotes the rank of the wearer. Wonyu-gwan (cylinder-shaped hat for Jobok) Wonyugwan came with Gangsapo. Jobok worn by the King and the Crown Prince when they were waited on by their servants in the morning, on the 1st and 15th days of the lunar month, when meeting with foreign envoys, and when writing diplomatic notes to China. Baeksamo (white mourner hat for officials) It was worn by civil and military officials during the period of national mourning in the Joseon Dynasty. Hogeon The Hogeon was worn by boys of noble birth at the end of the Joseon period in the early 1900. It was similar to a Bokgeon, but it had a tiger face embroidered on a black background. Tugu (helmet) Warriors wore Tugu (helmet) which was made of gold outside and linen or mink inside. Paeraengi (bamboo hat) Paeraengi made of sliced bamboo and was similar in shape to Gat, but with a rounded rather than a peaked top. It was worn by lower-class people like private soldiers, peddlers, and butchers. Peddlers used to wear this with a cotton blossom. Satgat (cone-shaped hat) The Satgat provided protection from the sun and was made of paper. It was sometimes made with oiled-paper. Beonggeoji (a type of head gear) The Beonggeoji was a kind of Jeonrip (military hat) that was worn by Jeonryeong (messengers) or lower-class people, and by palanquin carriers with Heuk-ui (black clothes) in Joseon Period. It was made of rough materials such as pig hair. |
Geum-gwan (gold crown)
Civil and military officials wore the Geum-gwan along with Jobok for ancestor worship ceremonies and for happy occasions like national holidays. The coronet was painted with gold and the number of strings on its front and back indicated the rank of the wearer. Samo (mourner’s hat for officials) Samo worn by scholar and military officials in Joseon period, and was part of Danryeong, a mourning costume for officials. Usually they wore black Samo, but during periods of national mourning (such as the death of the king or queen) a white Samo was worn in company with a white Danryeong. Yugeon Yugeon were worn by Confucian scholars during the Joseon Kingdom when they went to the Hyangkyo (a local Confucian school) or Seowon (private Confucian school), to take part in the national official examinations, or participated in memorial services. Hwihang The Hwihang, also called Hohang, Pungryeong, or Hwiyang, was a winter hat for men worn in Joseon Period. Usually it had black silk inside and mink’s fur outside. Nambawi (hood hemmed with fur for woman) It is a winter cap worn during Joseon Period Galmo (waterproof covering hat) This oiled, cone-shaped water proof covering was used to protect Gat from rain. Jeongdangbeolrip (wide brimmed hat of Jeju Island) This hat was worn by the farmers when they worked their fields, or when raising cows and horses on Jeju island. Nongmo (farmer’s hat) Farmers wore this hat to protect themselves from the rain and sun. Jurip (red hat for Yungbok clothes) Jurip was a red-coloured hat worn by civil and military officials with Yungbok clothes. |
Jeongja-gwan (Hat made by Horse Tail Hair)
Jeongja-gwan (Hat made by Horse Tail Hair)
Worn by scholars of the Joseon Dynasty (1392 – 1910), this hat received its name from the Jeong Hyeon brothers, Confucian scholars from the time of China Sung Dynasty. It was crafted from horse tail hair and composed of two or three layers, the top part sloped downward and was open.
Manggeon (Hair Band)
The Mangeon was placed around the head to secure Gat (brimmed hat) in the place. It was made of horse hair and the material of its Gwanja (hair band buttons) and Pungjam marked the social class of the wearer.
Tanggeon (Made by Horse Hair Skull Cap)
Tanggeon (Made by Horse Hair Skull Cap)
The Tanggeon was worn by nobility to cover the Mangeon (hair band made by horse hair) or as a support at the base of Gwanmo (official hats). Among the Jung-in class (people in this class were mostly in the commercial and medical fields), it was also used in place of the Gwanmo. It was woven with horse hair and shaped like a stairway with different heights for front and back.
Jeonrip (Military Hat)
Military officers and soldiers wore Jeonrip. Jeonrip for high ranking military officials was called Aneolrim-beonggeoji, and for junior officers or soldiers in district offices, it was just called Beonggeoji. Jeonrip worn by military officials was made of black wool and decorated with pheasant. Sangmo (a decorative string with feathered tail), and occasionally a string of Milhwa beads (a bead of golden yellow amber)
Gat (Men’s Brimmed Hat)
Gat was one of the main Gwanmo (official hats) worn by noblemen in the Joseon Dynasty (1392 – 1910). It consisted of Moja (hat), and Beoreong (brim) with a hat string. Various types of Gat were distinguished by the shape of the Moja (hat) and its colour.
Heukrip (men’s wide brimmed hat, black hat)
Worn by Joseon noblemen, Heukrip was a type of Gwan (hat). It was usually referred to as a Gat. It was plaited with sliced horsehair or bamboo strips and painted black. The decorations on a Gat and its strings were used to determine social class. Lower-class people were not allowed to wear Gat during the early Joseon Dynasty. But over the years, these restrictions were relaxed.
Baekrip (white hat)
Baekrip was worn at national funerals. It was made of sliced bamboo covered by soft hemp cloth.
Chorip (bamboo hat)
Dating the early Joseon Dynasty, Chorip was made by plaiting sliced bamboo, the quality of the bamboo (soft or rough) distinguished the noble from the commoners.
Gatkkeun (string of hat)
A string tied to a Gat. Different kinds of materials such as jade, amber, coral, crystal, patch, milhwa beads and pieces of cloth were used to represent social status.
Heukrip (men’s wide brimmed hat, black hat)
Worn by Joseon noblemen, Heukrip was a type of Gwan (hat). It was usually referred to as a Gat. It was plaited with sliced horsehair or bamboo strips and painted black. The decorations on a Gat and its strings were used to determine social class. Lower-class people were not allowed to wear Gat during the early Joseon Dynasty. But over the years, these restrictions were relaxed.
Baekrip (white hat)
Baekrip was worn at national funerals. It was made of sliced bamboo covered by soft hemp cloth.
Chorip (bamboo hat)
Dating the early Joseon Dynasty, Chorip was made by plaiting sliced bamboo, the quality of the bamboo (soft or rough) distinguished the noble from the commoners.
Gatkkeun (string of hat)
A string tied to a Gat. Different kinds of materials such as jade, amber, coral, crystal, patch, milhwa beads and pieces of cloth were used to represent social status.
Sseugae (Hats and Head-Dresses for Women)
Jokduri (jewelled hat)
This was jewelled crown worn by married women on ceremonial occasions during the Joseon Dynasty (1392 – 1910). It became popular after the Gache (large plait of false hair) was prohibited by the Joseon authorities. Ayam (bonet for women) Yet another type of women Gwanmo (official hat), Ayam came into use in the early 1900. Resembling a hair band, it covered the head and occasionally had additional decoration such as Daenggi (hair ribbons) on its back. Jobawi (young women’s winter hat) This was kind of Gwanmo (official hat) worn by young married women in the late Joseon and early post-Joseon periods. Jangot (head-dress) Joseon women wore the Jang-ot when they left the house. It was first used as a Po (outer coat) until the mid-Joseon Dynasty, but later on it was used only as a veil. |
Hwa-gwan (jewelled crown)
Another kind of Gwanmo (official hat) was worn by women of the palace and from noble families for ceremonial occasions during the late Joseon Period (1392 – 1910). Even commoners wore Hwa-gwan, Wonsam (court robe) and Hwalot (the palace women’s ceremonial dress) at their wedding ceremonies. Gulrae (quilted baby hat) This quilted, multi-coloured coronet was worn by infant girls in the late Joseon period and was tied at the neck. Cheone (coverlet) It was worn by married women on the street during Joseon period. Jeonmo (coverlet) It is a coverlet worn by the women of the Joseon Dynasty as an outing hat. |
Hair Style for Women
Tteoguji-meori (ceremonial hairdo)
Tteoguji was made of wood painted in black with carvings of hair on its surface. This big, decorated wig was placed over an Eoyeomeori (ceremonial hairdo), a women’s ceremonial wig, and was used in various palace ceremonies. Keun-meori (hairdo decorated with big wig) This hairstyle used intricate braids together with Gache (large plait of false hair), or big wig, and wrapped around the head. |
Cheopji-meori (chignon with golden ornament hairdo)
Cheopji was a golden ornament for hairdo used by women during the Joseon Dynasty (1392 – 1910). Its used identified women of noble families, including the royal family. It was placed in the centre of the head and its imitation hair was braided along each side of head and tied with real hair at the back of the head in the chignon style. Eonjeun-meori (hairstyle for married women) Eonjeun-meori was the hairstyle for married women in the mid-Joseon Dynasty. The hair was put up in braids in a circle around the women head. A ribbon was used to secure it at the top. |
Hair Accessories
1.Daenggi (Hair Ribbons)
Daenggi were richly decorated ribbons that were attached to the ends of a women braids, keeping the hair in shape
Apdaenggi (front ribbons)
As one of the ceremonial Daenggies, it came with Doturak-daenggi on a wedding dress but with other ceremonial dresses, it was worn alone. The ribbons were intricately embroidered with the lotus blossoms. Sipjangsaengmun (ten immortal symbols), and Supamun (wave-pattern) designs on a black silk background. It was draped over both ends of the crossbar and hung in front.
Doturak-daenggi (ceremonial hair ribbons)
This ribbon hung from the nape of the neck down the back of wedding robes, like Wonsam or Hwalot. It went with either Jokduri or Hwagan hats. These satin hair ribbons usually came in two colours; black and red, and were split down the middle. They were embroidered with cloud, crane, pomegranate and Sipjangsaeng (ten immortal symbols) designs.
Daenggi were richly decorated ribbons that were attached to the ends of a women braids, keeping the hair in shape
Apdaenggi (front ribbons)
As one of the ceremonial Daenggies, it came with Doturak-daenggi on a wedding dress but with other ceremonial dresses, it was worn alone. The ribbons were intricately embroidered with the lotus blossoms. Sipjangsaengmun (ten immortal symbols), and Supamun (wave-pattern) designs on a black silk background. It was draped over both ends of the crossbar and hung in front.
Doturak-daenggi (ceremonial hair ribbons)
This ribbon hung from the nape of the neck down the back of wedding robes, like Wonsam or Hwalot. It went with either Jokduri or Hwagan hats. These satin hair ribbons usually came in two colours; black and red, and were split down the middle. They were embroidered with cloud, crane, pomegranate and Sipjangsaeng (ten immortal symbols) designs.
2.Tteoljam (Fluttering Hairpin)
Tteoljam was a Joseon Dynasty’s (1392 – 1910) hair decoration that married women to placed on front and each side of the head. Ttul referred to a butterfly or bird-shaped spring decoration made of silver thread. Binyeo (cross bar) with Ttul decoration was called Ttulbinyeo.
Tteoljam was a Joseon Dynasty’s (1392 – 1910) hair decoration that married women to placed on front and each side of the head. Ttul referred to a butterfly or bird-shaped spring decoration made of silver thread. Binyeo (cross bar) with Ttul decoration was called Ttulbinyeo.
3.Dwikkoji (A Kind of Ornamental Hairpin)
This hair decoration was put in Jjokjin-meori (Chignon) to beautify the hair. Some functional Dwikkojies were used as ear picks or Bitchigae (a tool to remove dirt from a comb’s teeth).
4.Binyeo (Cross Bar)
Binyeo was used to hold the Jjok (chignon hair style) in place and the name was different depending on the type of material used or the shape of the carvings. There were Ok-binyeo made of jade, Chilbo-juk-binyeo was a bamboo-shaped cross bar painted in silver. Seokryubinyeo had pomegranate carvings, and Sanho-binyeo were made of coral. Bong-binyeo were decorated with Bong (legendary bird) designs and Eun-juk-binyeo were carved with silver bamboo decorations.
This hair decoration was put in Jjokjin-meori (Chignon) to beautify the hair. Some functional Dwikkojies were used as ear picks or Bitchigae (a tool to remove dirt from a comb’s teeth).
4.Binyeo (Cross Bar)
Binyeo was used to hold the Jjok (chignon hair style) in place and the name was different depending on the type of material used or the shape of the carvings. There were Ok-binyeo made of jade, Chilbo-juk-binyeo was a bamboo-shaped cross bar painted in silver. Seokryubinyeo had pomegranate carvings, and Sanho-binyeo were made of coral. Bong-binyeo were decorated with Bong (legendary bird) designs and Eun-juk-binyeo were carved with silver bamboo decorations.
Norigae (Pendants)
Women from all classes wore the popular Norigae. This elaborately designed decoration was hung on Goreum (breast tie) that were attached to both inside and outside of Jeogori (jacket), or on the waist of Chima (Skirt). Drawing attention to the beauty of the clothes on which they were hung, Norigae consisted of loops of braided silk string called Ttidon. Its body was called Maedeup (knot), and Sul (tassel). Ttidon was hung on the very top of a group of Norigae to keep them all strung together. Ttidon was made in various shapes such as squares, circles, flowers and butterflies. They were embroidered with flowers, Bulrocho (a herb of eternal youth) and dragons. Metals like gold, silver and bronze were used as materials, as well as semi-precious stones like jade, amber, pearls and corals. Ttidons were sometimes shaped like bats, turtles, pepper plants, eggs and apples, and objects like packets and calabashes.
Norigae came in different varieties, Danjak norigae (pendants adorned with single ornament), Samjak norigae (pendants with three ornaments) and Ojak norigae (pendants with five ornaments). Large beautiful Norigae were worn at wedding ceremonies. Simple Norigae were worn for everyday use or on national holidays. Some upper-class married women had jewelled Norigae made for their children. Commoners used embroidered Norigae instead of jewelled Norigae.
Norigae came in different varieties, Danjak norigae (pendants adorned with single ornament), Samjak norigae (pendants with three ornaments) and Ojak norigae (pendants with five ornaments). Large beautiful Norigae were worn at wedding ceremonies. Simple Norigae were worn for everyday use or on national holidays. Some upper-class married women had jewelled Norigae made for their children. Commoners used embroidered Norigae instead of jewelled Norigae.
REFERENCES:
1. Hong Jinkee, Lee Donghae, Kang Hyejeong, Pyo Seongleon, Korean Clothing, Korean Cultural Heritage 2, pg 120 - 160, Retrieve April 25, 2013.
2. Hanbok – Korean Traditional Clothes [internet]. [cited April 25, 2013]. Available from: http://www.homestaykorea.com/?document_srl=28402
3. Hanbok, Wikipedia The Free Encyclopedia [internet]. [cited April 27, 2013]. Available from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanbok
4. Official/Court Clothing, Life in Korea [internet]. [cited April 27, 2013]. Available from: http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official
5. List of Korean Clothing, Wikipedia The Free Encyclopedia [internet]. [cited April 28, 2013]. Available from: http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official
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