Clothing of the Three Kingdoms Period (BC 82 – AD 668)
The King's and Queen's dresses
Clothing is one of the basic elements in human life and is affected by weather, climate and lifestyle. The ancestors of Koreans started making clothing using natural materials from the New Stone Age onwards. Beginning in the Three Kingdoms period, and heavily influenced by China, the basic system of traditional Korean dress for men was Baji(Trousers), and Jeogori(jacket). There was also a long over coat and the Gwanmo(Official hat). The traditional dress for women centred on the Chima, or skirt, along with a women’s version of the Jeogori(jacket). Other parts of this traditional wardrobe included Dae(belt), Hwa(shoes) and Yi(shoes) and the Durumagi(long outer coat), long outer coat that was occasionally worn as formal wear or as protection from the cold. The Jeogori-Baji combination of narrow sleeves and trousers allowed the wearer great flexibility when it came to riding and hunting.
The outstanding feature of the costume style of the Three Kingdom Period is that both men and women wore long Jeogori(jacket) that reached below the waistline. The collars were high and the sleeves were narrow. Each collar, sleeve cuffs, and the edge of a Jeogori(jacket) or a Durumagi(Long outer coat) were lined in different colours. They wore waist belts instead of Goreum(Doubled and sewed up ribbons) and the narrow trousers tied at the end with a cord called a Bajiburi. Long ankle-length, even floor-length, pleated, full skirts were worn and the bottom with lined bottoms. Both men and women wore Po(outer coat), over Baji(Trousers)-Jeogori(Jacket), Chima(Skirt)-Jeogori(Jacket), and the shape of the collar and the sleeves were the same as that of Jeogori(Jacket).
The outstanding feature of the costume style of the Three Kingdom Period is that both men and women wore long Jeogori(jacket) that reached below the waistline. The collars were high and the sleeves were narrow. Each collar, sleeve cuffs, and the edge of a Jeogori(jacket) or a Durumagi(Long outer coat) were lined in different colours. They wore waist belts instead of Goreum(Doubled and sewed up ribbons) and the narrow trousers tied at the end with a cord called a Bajiburi. Long ankle-length, even floor-length, pleated, full skirts were worn and the bottom with lined bottoms. Both men and women wore Po(outer coat), over Baji(Trousers)-Jeogori(Jacket), Chima(Skirt)-Jeogori(Jacket), and the shape of the collar and the sleeves were the same as that of Jeogori(Jacket).
Clothing of the Unified Silla Kingdom (668 – 914)
Influenced by the traditional costumes of the early Silla and Tang Dynasty China, a new style of clothing arrived during this era. The upper classes including King, wore clothing similar to that of Tang China while the traditional costume from the Three Kingdoms Period was still worn by commoners.
Clothing of the Goryeo Kingdom (918 – 1392)
The Queen's dress
Influenced by Unified Silla, the system of official dress in Goryeo kingdom(918 – 1392) still followed that of China. Goryeo Kings wore Myeonbok (Ceremonial Dress) with Po (Outer coat) and Wonyugwan (A crown that went with a Gangsapo (an official robe for courtiers of the king or the crown prince). The King also wore Jebok (Ritual robes) occasionally. Other ordinary costumes continued without drastic change, keeping the traditional Korean system of address intact. But with the conquest of the Goryeo kingdom by the Mongolian, changes inevitably took place. Some, but not all Koreans adopted the Mongolian hair style called the Byunbal. This involved completely shaving the skull completely except for one spot in the center of the head, from which the hair was grown in a braid down the person’s back. Beside hairstyle, another change made in the traditional dress during this period was the jackets grew shorter, and their sleeves narrower.
- Myeonbok – ceremonial dress for king
- Gonbok – ordinary dress for king
- Jeokui – ceremonial dress for queen
Clothing of the Joseon Kingdom (1392 – 1910)
Myeonbok (Ceremonial Dress) for King
The prototype and institute of Korean customs have been established during the period of Joseon dynasty. There had been no change in the style of Gwanbok (official cloth) since its establishment that was based on Gyeongkukeadjeon until the period of Daehanjekuk. But other clothes followed the custom tradition of the late Goryeo period until the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 and a typical Joseon custom style was established in late Joseon dynasty. Government officials wore an official uniform called Gwanbok and Gongbok was a simplified version of the official uniform. They wore and ordinary custom called Sangbok in their daily work place. Dangsanggwan (high rank government officials) wore red robe and officials from Danghagwan to 6th rank wore blue robe, official below 8th rank wore green robe. Jebok (a black ritual robe) which was worn in memorial service has similar composition as the one of Jobok (official robe of cortier). Pyeongbok, a daily custom of the noble men consist of Durumagi (an outer coat), Gikryeong (a coat with up-straight collar), Cheopri, Jung-ui, Dopo (scholar’s street wear), Sim-ui (robe worn by scholar) and Chang-ui (a kind of men’s robe). Confucians wore Cheng-geum. Officials at provincial government wore Najerip, a black hat until the early Joseon dynasty, and wore Ipja, Jikryeong and Chang-ot as normal people did after the Japanese invasion in1952. Gat (a horse hair) originated from lacquer painted Jukrip (bamboo hat) and Pyeongrangja, a normal people’s hat appeared in late Goryeo period. Women’s Chima (skirt) and Jeogori (jacket) has been worn all the time in the history of Korean custom. The length of skirt got longer and wider, the length of Jeogori got shorter as reaching to the end of Joseon.
Myeonbok(ceremonial dress) for King
The king wore the Myeonbok (ceremonial dress) specifically for the royal family’s ancestral memorial services. He wore a Jungdam (single layer of clothing) over Baji (trousers) and a Jeogori (jacket) with Beoseon (socks), then a skirt with the Gonui (robe). Accessories worn included the Daedae (large sash) with Husu (back apron), a hung Pyeseul (knee covers) in front, Paeok (pendants with jade strings) on each side and the Myunryugwan (ceremonial crown of king), and shoes. Held in hand was a tablet called a Hol (tablet).
Myeonbok(ceremonial dress) for King
The king wore the Myeonbok (ceremonial dress) specifically for the royal family’s ancestral memorial services. He wore a Jungdam (single layer of clothing) over Baji (trousers) and a Jeogori (jacket) with Beoseon (socks), then a skirt with the Gonui (robe). Accessories worn included the Daedae (large sash) with Husu (back apron), a hung Pyeseul (knee covers) in front, Paeok (pendants with jade strings) on each side and the Myunryugwan (ceremonial crown of king), and shoes. Held in hand was a tablet called a Hol (tablet).
REFERENCES:
1. Hong Jinkee, Lee Donghae, Kang Hyejeong, Pyo Seongleon, Korean Clothing, Korean Cultural Heritage 2, pg 120 - 160, Retrieve April 25, 2013.
2. Hanbok – Korean Traditional Clothes [internet]. [cited April 25, 2013]. Available from: http://www.homestaykorea.com/?document_srl=2840
3. Hanbok, Wikipedia The Free Encyclopedia [internet]. [cited April 27, 2013]. Available from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanbok
4. Official/Court Clothing, Life in Korea [internet]. [cited April 27, 2013]. Available from: http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official
5. List of Korean Clothing, Wikipedia The Free Encyclopedia [internet]. [cited April 28, 2013]. Available from: http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official
|
|
|