12 Symbols of Myeonbok (Ceremonial Dresses)
Ceremonial crown with twelve pendants.
Only an emperor could wear the twelve symbols of the sun, moon, stars, mountain, dragon, flame, pheasant, sacrificial wine cup, millet, rice, axes, and fire. A king wore nine symbols excluding the sun, moon and stars.
Jangmun (Auspicious Symbols) on Myeonbok (Ceremonial Dresses) Jangmun’s design represented the Confucian concept that rulers must be virtuous. Only an emperor could wear the twelve symbols of the sun, moon, stars, mountain, dragon, flame, pheasant, Jong-i (cup for religious service), millet, rice, axe, and Bul. A king wore nine symbols excluding the sun, moon, and vega.
Hae (sun), Dal (moon)
Marked as an O, an embroidered sun was placed in a circle on the right side of the Myeonbok (ceremonial dress), the moon was on the left. Also in the right-hand circle was the three-clawed crow, the samjoko, the three-clawed crows which in old Chinese myths lived only in the sun. A rabbit or toad was in the left-hand circle.
Seongsin (stars)
As one of the brightest stars in the sky, Vega represented wishes for the emperor’s safety.
San (mountain)
This symbol represented a desire for peace and stability.
Yong (dragon)
Embroidered on the shoulders of the emperor’s robes, the dragon was reserved for the emperor’s use only. The dragon was a symbol of great supernatural power.
Hwa (flame)
Flame represented hope, and was embroidered on sleeves.
Jong-i (Cup for religious service)
These stood for filial piety. The tiger and monkey were on the cups’ surface.
Hwachungs (pheasant)
The pheasant stood for splendid beauty.
Jo (water plant)
Jo represented cultivation and nutrition. It was embroidered on the borders of a woman’s Chima (skirt) or on a robe’s borders in the round rine-pattern.
Bunmi (rice)
The symbol of innocence, it was also embroidered on Chima (skirt).
Bo (axe)
Axe stood for decisiveness and justice, it was embroidered on Chima (skirt) as well.
Bul (Buddhist pattern)
The fire was for protection against evil spirit and the promotion of good deeds. It was also embroidered on the Chima (skirt).
Myeonryu-gwan (Ceremonial Crown for King)
The crown accompanied the Myeonbok (ceremonial dress) and was also called Myeongwan, or Pyunchungwan. The number of Yu (pendant hung in front and back of mortar board) indicated the rank of the wearer. Each Yu consisted of nine beads in five colours, which are blue, red, yellow, black and white. The number of beads on nine pendants total 162. There were twelve pendants of nine beads in three colours for the crown prince, and seven pendants for the king’s grandson.
Jangmun (Auspicious Symbols) on Myeonbok (Ceremonial Dresses) Jangmun’s design represented the Confucian concept that rulers must be virtuous. Only an emperor could wear the twelve symbols of the sun, moon, stars, mountain, dragon, flame, pheasant, Jong-i (cup for religious service), millet, rice, axe, and Bul. A king wore nine symbols excluding the sun, moon, and vega.
Hae (sun), Dal (moon)
Marked as an O, an embroidered sun was placed in a circle on the right side of the Myeonbok (ceremonial dress), the moon was on the left. Also in the right-hand circle was the three-clawed crow, the samjoko, the three-clawed crows which in old Chinese myths lived only in the sun. A rabbit or toad was in the left-hand circle.
Seongsin (stars)
As one of the brightest stars in the sky, Vega represented wishes for the emperor’s safety.
San (mountain)
This symbol represented a desire for peace and stability.
Yong (dragon)
Embroidered on the shoulders of the emperor’s robes, the dragon was reserved for the emperor’s use only. The dragon was a symbol of great supernatural power.
Hwa (flame)
Flame represented hope, and was embroidered on sleeves.
Jong-i (Cup for religious service)
These stood for filial piety. The tiger and monkey were on the cups’ surface.
Hwachungs (pheasant)
The pheasant stood for splendid beauty.
Jo (water plant)
Jo represented cultivation and nutrition. It was embroidered on the borders of a woman’s Chima (skirt) or on a robe’s borders in the round rine-pattern.
Bunmi (rice)
The symbol of innocence, it was also embroidered on Chima (skirt).
Bo (axe)
Axe stood for decisiveness and justice, it was embroidered on Chima (skirt) as well.
Bul (Buddhist pattern)
The fire was for protection against evil spirit and the promotion of good deeds. It was also embroidered on the Chima (skirt).
Myeonryu-gwan (Ceremonial Crown for King)
The crown accompanied the Myeonbok (ceremonial dress) and was also called Myeongwan, or Pyunchungwan. The number of Yu (pendant hung in front and back of mortar board) indicated the rank of the wearer. Each Yu consisted of nine beads in five colours, which are blue, red, yellow, black and white. The number of beads on nine pendants total 162. There were twelve pendants of nine beads in three colours for the crown prince, and seven pendants for the king’s grandson.
Jajeok-danryeong (The Ordinary Dress for King Violet-Coloured Ceremonial Dress
Jajeok-danryeong (ordinary dress for King)
It is an official custom of Heungseon Daewongun (the father of the king Gojong).
Hong-ryongpo (The Ordinary Dress for King: Red Dragon Robe)
Hong-ryongpo (the ordinary dress for King)
The king wore Ikseongwan (Black horse hair hat), Gonyongpo (indigo blue dragon robe), Okdae (Jade sash) and Hwa (long-necked shoes) when carrying out his duties. The colour of Gwan (crown) and Po (outer coat) varied.
Tongcheon-gwanbok (Official Robe for the Morning Court)
Official robe of King Sunjong for the morning court.
The Jobok was an official robe of the king worn when the courtiers attended the king during morning court. Along with the Jobok, he would wear a Wonyu-gwan (crown), and Gangsapo (official robe for court) with white Beoseon (socks) and Hwa (long-necked shoes).
Yonghaksujamun Dujeong Gapju (Military Uniform)
Yonghaksujamon Dujeong Gapju (military uniform)
The Gapot (suit of armor) was made of iron, bronze and wood, and protected the body from spears and arrows. It consisted of three parts: Gyeon-gap, the Hyunggap (Breastplate), and the Teogap that covered the wearer’s shoulders, chest, waist and legs. Each shoulder was decorated with a gold plated dragon that flexed with the wearer’s movement.
Gugunbok ( Complete Set of Military Uniform)
Gugunbok (complete set of military uniform)
The Gunbok was the military uniform for civil and military officials. They wore Jeonbok (sleeveless robe) and Dongdali (inner robe) with a Jeonrip (military hat), Hwa (long-necked shoes), and Jeondae (sash) around the chest. They held a Deungchae (baton with a lash) in one hand.
Dongdali (inner robe)
A dongdali was a Po (robe) worn inside a Jeonbok (sleeveless robe). The colour of the sleeves was scarlet and the type of collar was called a Jikryeong (up-straight collar), the same as on the Durumagi (outer coat).
Dongdali (inner robe)
A dongdali was a Po (robe) worn inside a Jeonbok (sleeveless robe). The colour of the sleeves was scarlet and the type of collar was called a Jikryeong (up-straight collar), the same as on the Durumagi (outer coat).
Jebok (Ritual Robe)
Jebok (ritual robe)
The king wore the Jebok when he held memorial services at royal ancestral memorial shrines. Other than the king, only Jegwan (ritual officers) and Hyanggwan (court officers), were allowed to wear this robe. Civil and military officials wore the Geungwan-jobok (gold decorated official court attire).
A Jebok was worn with the Jegwan (ritual cap), Cheongchoui, Jeokchosang, Baekchojungdan, Pyeseul (knee covers), Daedae (large sash) and a Hyeokdae (leather belt). The Jebok was also worn with Paeok (pendant with jade strings), Sue, Mal, and Hye (low-sided shoes), and Hol (tablet). The colour of the robe varied depending on the official rank of the wearer.
Bangsimgokryeong (ritual token attached to the round collar)
This ritual token was made of white linen was attached put around the collar of the Jobok (official robe of the morning court) and Jebok (ritual robe)
Hol (tablet)
The king and civil and military officials would hold the Hol in both hands. Different kinds of Hols existed depending on the class and the rank of the holder.
Pyeseul (knee covers)
Pyeseul came with the Jebok and Jobok and covered the knees of the wearer.
A Jebok was worn with the Jegwan (ritual cap), Cheongchoui, Jeokchosang, Baekchojungdan, Pyeseul (knee covers), Daedae (large sash) and a Hyeokdae (leather belt). The Jebok was also worn with Paeok (pendant with jade strings), Sue, Mal, and Hye (low-sided shoes), and Hol (tablet). The colour of the robe varied depending on the official rank of the wearer.
Bangsimgokryeong (ritual token attached to the round collar)
This ritual token was made of white linen was attached put around the collar of the Jobok (official robe of the morning court) and Jebok (ritual robe)
Hol (tablet)
The king and civil and military officials would hold the Hol in both hands. Different kinds of Hols existed depending on the class and the rank of the holder.
Pyeseul (knee covers)
Pyeseul came with the Jebok and Jobok and covered the knees of the wearer.
Dopo (Scholar’s Street Wear)
Dopo (scholar’s street wear)
Noble men wore the Dopo as their outer coat. It had a stand-up collar with Mu (gussets) and wide sleeves. Its backside was split open in the middle from waist down, with an extra-long flap, which made it more comfortable to ride a horse. The Dopo was fastened by a narrow string at the chest. Beoseon (socks) and Taesahye (leather shoes for men) were worn with Gat (hat made by bamboo).
Jeok-ui (Official Court Robe)
Official court robe of Queen Yeongwangbi
Two pairs of pheasants were embroidered on this wide deep blue-coloured robe. Its neckline and sleeve cuffs were bordered with red silk with gold-leaf imprints in dragon and Bongwhang (legendary bird) motifs. Okdae (jade sash) was worn around the chest, while on the head a wig decorated with dragon, Girin (Chinese legendary animal) and Bongwhang was worn. A Hol (tablet) was held in both hands.
Wonsam (Minor Ceremonial Robe)
Yellow ceremonial robe of Queen Myeongseonghwanghu
It was a combination of the Daeran-chima (wide skirt), a Jeogori (jacket), Jeonhaenutchima (front panel skirt) and large sleeves with Saekdong (wide strips of various colours, mainly red, yellow and blue). Each side was split open with Bo (emblematic medallion) and Hyungbae (rank badge) attached to its chest and shoulders, and a Tteoljam (flutting hairpin) on the head. A variation of the Wonsam (minor ceremonial robe) consisted of a Daeran-chima (wide skirt) and Jeogori (jacket) over it.
Hwalot (Bridal Robe)
Hwalot (bridal robe)
Women of the palace or from the upper classes wore Hwalot on their wedding day. Eventually, the Hwalot become popular with average Koreans as well. It was embroidered with symbols that represented wishes for longevity and good fortune.
Buinbok (Costume of Married Women)
Buinbok (costume of married women)
It is an ordinary custom of married women from high class in the Joseon period.
Mubok (Shaman’s Costume)
Mudang (shaman) in her Mubok (shaman's costume)
Mudang (shaman) wore different kind of Mubok depending on the type of the Gut (exorcism) and his/her role in the ceremony.
Yebok (Ceremonial Costumes)
Wedding suits
During the Joseon dynasty (1392-1910), those who lacked official rank were allowed on their wedding day to wear the Gwanbok (the Confucian official uniform). This was a lifetime favour. The Gwanbok consisted of the Samo (hat), Danryeong (official robe), Dae (sash), and Hwaja (long-necked shoes). Initially, violet was the favourite colour for Danryeong, since that was the favourite colour worn by the crown prince, but blue black become more popular by the end of the Joseon period. Late in the Joseon dynasty, commoners were permitted to wear Wonsam (court robes) or Hwalot (the palace women’s ceremonial dress). In most cases, they wore green Wonsam (court robe) that had stripes with five different colours with, but no stamped gold foil. Upper class people wore Wonsam (court robe) with gold foil and trimmed with gold brocade.
During the Joseon dynasty (1392-1910), those who lacked official rank were allowed on their wedding day to wear the Gwanbok (the Confucian official uniform). This was a lifetime favour. The Gwanbok consisted of the Samo (hat), Danryeong (official robe), Dae (sash), and Hwaja (long-necked shoes). Initially, violet was the favourite colour for Danryeong, since that was the favourite colour worn by the crown prince, but blue black become more popular by the end of the Joseon period. Late in the Joseon dynasty, commoners were permitted to wear Wonsam (court robes) or Hwalot (the palace women’s ceremonial dress). In most cases, they wore green Wonsam (court robe) that had stripes with five different colours with, but no stamped gold foil. Upper class people wore Wonsam (court robe) with gold foil and trimmed with gold brocade.
Gwanryebok (costume for the coming-of-age ceremony)
Gwanrye was a coming-of-age ceremony for boys who were over fifteen, in which they announced their entry into manhood by wearing a Gwan (crown). There were three steps called Choga, Jaega and Samga, in this ceremony and each step required a different costume. During the Choga (first step), the boy rid himself of his children’s costume (Ssanggye, Sakseom, Neukbaek, Chaeguk) and made Sangtu (tying his hair in a knot) with Mangeon (head band) on it. Then he put Binyeo (cross bar) on Chigwan and wore Bokgun (hood of stiffened silk gauze). Next he put on Daedae (sarge sash) and Jo (belt). During the Jaega (second step), he took off the outfit he wore during the Choga (first step) and put on a hat, and Josam (robe), with a belt around it. At the Samga (third step), he wore Nansam (another robe), along with Bokdu, Yeongdae (another belt), and Hwa (long-necked shoes).
Gwanrye was a coming-of-age ceremony for boys who were over fifteen, in which they announced their entry into manhood by wearing a Gwan (crown). There were three steps called Choga, Jaega and Samga, in this ceremony and each step required a different costume. During the Choga (first step), the boy rid himself of his children’s costume (Ssanggye, Sakseom, Neukbaek, Chaeguk) and made Sangtu (tying his hair in a knot) with Mangeon (head band) on it. Then he put Binyeo (cross bar) on Chigwan and wore Bokgun (hood of stiffened silk gauze). Next he put on Daedae (sarge sash) and Jo (belt). During the Jaega (second step), he took off the outfit he wore during the Choga (first step) and put on a hat, and Josam (robe), with a belt around it. At the Samga (third step), he wore Nansam (another robe), along with Bokdu, Yeongdae (another belt), and Hwa (long-necked shoes).
Kyeryebok (costume for girl coming-of-age ceremony)
Kyerye referred to a girl coming-of-age ceremony conducted by older women, in which a girl made her hair up in chignon and secured it with the Binyeo (ornamental cross bar). She then put on the Hwagwan (jewelled crown) and the Baeja, a vest-like upper garment with a jacket worn over it.
Kyerye referred to a girl coming-of-age ceremony conducted by older women, in which a girl made her hair up in chignon and secured it with the Binyeo (ornamental cross bar). She then put on the Hwagwan (jewelled crown) and the Baeja, a vest-like upper garment with a jacket worn over it.
Hoegapbok (costume for celebrating 60th birthday)
This was a special costume for a man celebrating his 60th birthday. Men who had official rank wore the Gwanbok (the Confucian official uniform), while commoners wore the Dopo (scholar’s street wear) or the Durumagi (overcoat). Both groups wore the Gat (hat made by bamboo). The women wore a Samhoejangjeogori (women’s jacket with purple coloured collar, ribbon, cuff, armpit) and a deep blue skirt.
This was a special costume for a man celebrating his 60th birthday. Men who had official rank wore the Gwanbok (the Confucian official uniform), while commoners wore the Dopo (scholar’s street wear) or the Durumagi (overcoat). Both groups wore the Gat (hat made by bamboo). The women wore a Samhoejangjeogori (women’s jacket with purple coloured collar, ribbon, cuff, armpit) and a deep blue skirt.
Sangbok (Mourning Wear)
This mourner suit was also called Gulgeonjebok. Mourners wore Gulgeon (a high, quadrangular-shaped hemp hat), Sujil (a hair band of rough hemp cord), Hyogeon (narrow hemp sash), and Choe-ui (coat) over Jungui (upper clothes) with Choengsang (a wide sleeve hemp coat). Yoji (hemp cord) and Gyodae (hemp sash) were tied around the waist. Mourners also wore Mahye (hemp shoes) and Haengjeon (leggings) with a stick held in the hand. The material and the sewing methods used were different depending on the relationship with the dead.
Choe (a hemp cloth handkerchief)
A mourner put this little piece of hemp linen on the left breast where the heart was located. It was put on both sides of the chest later on. It was also called Nunmulbat-i (tear collector).
Choe (a hemp cloth handkerchief)
A mourner put this little piece of hemp linen on the left breast where the heart was located. It was put on both sides of the chest later on. It was also called Nunmulbat-i (tear collector).
REFERENCES:
1. Hong Jinkee, Lee Donghae, Kang Hyejeong, Pyo Seongleon, Korean Clothing, Korean Cultural Heritage 2, pg 120 - 160, Retrieve April 25, 2013.
2. Hanbok – Korean Traditional Clothes [internet]. [cited April 25, 2013]. Available from: http://www.homestaykorea.com/?document_srl=28402
3. Hanbok, Wikipedia The Free Encyclopedia [internet]. [cited April 27, 2013]. Available from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanbok
4. Official/Court Clothing, Life in Korea [internet]. [cited April 27, 2013]. Available from: http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official
5.List of Korean Clothing, Wikipedia The Free Encyclopedia [internet]. [cited April 28, 2013]. Available from: http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official
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